Mary Branscombe (marypcb) wrote,
Mary Branscombe
marypcb

New York Times doesn't know Hershey pre-oxidises

A fun article in the NYT proclaims that the best candy cars are English, of course. No surprise there, and it's nice to see many of the comparisons we've worked out - Mars bar and Milky Way are not the same in the US as in the UK - but no mention of the 3 Musketeers bars I find the closest match for a real Mars bar. And it always surprises me as a Brit to be able to explain why a Hershey bar tastes the way it does, but then we did go to Dr Peter Barham's course on chocolate.

When Hershey started shipping chocolate bars around 1900, you didn't have refrigerated trucks; nor did many people know what chocolate tasted like as it was a luxury. So the flavour of what arrived after travelling in a warm truck became so popular that when Hershey started shipping in refrigerated trucks, the customers said 'this doesn't taste the way I remember!'. At this point Hershey opted for backwardly comptible flavours and began pre-oxidising the ingredients.

When it's metal, oxidising rusts it. When it's fat, it's a polite term for rancid. It's that far more than the cocoa beans used in the US that gives a Hershey bar its, well, 'distinctive' flavour ;-)
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