Took the fast coast road to Motueka and Marahau, stoppping at Mapua for manuka smoked salmon (smoked over manuka chips, sweet as honey, succulent as fruit) and ice cream (strawberry kiwi/pineapple lime in neon yellow green) and to gaze at the expensive but phenomenal spiral pounamu window. Amazing with the light through it. Everything is espaliered to an inch of its life here - apples, pears, vines, hops... the pebble writing of the estuary is still there, names and symbols and slogans, bright against the mud and blue water puddling nearby. Then from gentle hills to the hairpin slopes to the coast. The sea is brown at the estuary from the floods then emerald green and palest blue.
We hiked up the track to the first beach and paddled in the sea and slept on the sand, read, knitted, wrote with shells, gazed out to sea and relaxed, then walked back along the beach and across the estuary - when the tide is out there's a little stream to ford and some mud to avoid.
Got a room at the b&b where I stayed. In fact the same room where I stayed! Dinner at the always excellent Park Cafe, with Macs Gold and Emersons Weissbier to wash it down. And stars, stars, stars - dimmed only by a moos so bright we had shadows!